03.17.2016
culture

'City of Gold' Makes You Drool for Flavors You Haven't Tasted Yet

Since 2007, the thumbnail bio on Jonathan Gold is that he was the first restaurant reviewer in the world to win a Pulitzer Prize for food writing. Now, with the release of City of Gold, a documentary directed by Laura Gabbert and playing in little, redolent theaters now, Gold's bio update includes the nugget that he is the subject of a film that shadows him as he drives from restaurant to restaurant, eats at them, and writes about the meals.

If the trailer is any indication, City of Gold remains eminently watchable while doing this noble work.

The great thing about living in Los Angeles and reading Jonathan Gold reviews is they steer you to food venues that never would have caught your attention. Some of them, you might have noticed without Gold's guidance, but you wouldn't have had the nerve to venture inside.

Gold is valued among legions of L.A. fans for lavishing his beautiful prose on the most rarefied haute-dining establishments in a very high-end city, and for using that same gorgeous and puissant language to lure you into a dank, mysterious mini-mall storefront that looks from the outside like it might be a ptomaine factory.

If you live outside Los Angeles, the great thing about Gold's reviews, and presumably City of Gold, is they activate reminders to try the unfamiliar, veer outside routine routes, absorb the joyous flavors and sustenance from the unexpected delight.

Eat up.

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